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Found out how to cut & paste it! Here it is, in its’ entirety…
Removing and Installing a Schaudt Elektroblock.
Removal
Do not pull any plugs out of the EBL until you first:
If your Electroblock is a model that has a battery isolation switch on the front (black rocker switch about ½” square) switch this off by pressing the bottom of the switch in.
Disconnect the mains EHU supply and in a Motorhome switch off the ignition and remove the key.
Photograph or record which fuses are in which slots on the front.
If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the Solar regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage it and put a spike into the Habitation electrics. The Schaudt LR 1218 documentation states in section 5, “Malfunction of or damage to connected consumers:
1. Do not operate the solar charge regulator without a battery.
2. Disconnect the connector on the solar charge regulator before changing or removing the battery”.Isolate the Solar Panel from the Regulator first, not the regulator from the Battery or EBL.
If you have an electric step, retract it now as once you have disconnected the EBL it may be stuck out. Manually hold closed the frost protection valve (a Clothes peg does a good job) as taking off the power may drain the water heater tank.
Switch off 12v at the Control Panel, usually above the door.
On an EBL 220 and other later models you may need to ‘isolate the battery’ on the control panel, if you do not do this there is a chance the EBL will not power up after installation. Check the manual for how to do this.
Remove the leads from the Habitation and in a Motorhome, the starter battery. Sometimes it is hard to gain access to both leads, so just removing one (the -) is usually ok.
Label the + Battery lead (often Blue or Black) with Red tape and the – Battery Lead (often Brown) with Black Tape.
Remove the 2amp fuse and 50amp fuse from their holders in the area of the habitation battery. Do the same under the bonnet (or Cab floor) for the similar 2amp and 50amp and additionally the 20amp near the Starter battery.
Double check EHU is not connected and remove the plugs from the front of the EBL starting with the Mains IEC (Kettle type) lead.
On units like the EBL 208 and 225 each Lucar Spade connector should be labelled and insulated as they are removed. Also take lots of photos.
The Control panel connectors with the very thin wires are easily broken, take great care and do not pull on the wires, you must pull only on the connector itself and some are difficult to grip. A Gentle slight ‘rocking’ motion usually works well.Read this next paragraph in its entirety before undoing these connectors. Clearly label the 3 primary connections at the BACK of the Elektroblock, on relevant models like the EBL 99 and 100. Failure to disconnect all the batteries earlier will leave some of these wires in a ‘live’ state. Take great care not to short them, touch them against each other or to the rear metal panel. Insulate each one well. We suggest you wrap insulating tape around the screwdriver blade (Flat blade not Pozidrive) to ensure it doesn’t contact the metal backplate of the EBL unit when undoing the three screws. Undo them in this order: Wohnr/Leisure battery (usually a Black lead) then the centre lead Minus (usually twin Brown leads) then the Starter (usually Red lead). The screws should be very hard to undo, you will require a quality stout flat blade screwdriver.
Once the plugs and wires are disconnected there are normally only 4 screws holding the EBL to the floor or wall.
Pack it carefully in a strong carboard box with bubble wrap or scrunched up newspaper to absorb any shock during transit. We might not be able to repair your unit if there is physical damage.Reinstallation
If the fuses were removed repopulate the fuses in front panel fuse holders as per your photograph. Do not put any plugs or connectors into the EBL until you first disconnect the mains supply, in a Motorhome switch off the ignition and remove the key.
If one is connected, disconnect the Solar panel from the regulator. Do not leave the regulator connected to the solar panel as the next step of removing the Battery leads may damage the regulator. Please be extra careful about reconnecting the battery the correct way around, German builders often use Brown for Negative and Blue or Black for Positive.
Remove the leads from the Habitation and in a Motorhome, the Starter batteries.
Double check that no plugs are inserted at the front of the box then connect the three (or four) fat wires at the back of the EBL IN THE ORDER they were removed above –
RED (ROT) to its connector. Brown (Braun) to its connector, Black (Swarz) to its connector. Note that some Motor home builders use coloured cable that is different to that suggested by Schaudt. If the battery leads have not been disconnected take great care not to touch the leads to each other or to the Aluminium back panel.
If any of these leads do touch or short you are likely to damage the EBL. Check the big fuses (between 30 – 50 amp) usually located around the Starter and Leisure batteries.
Plug in the MNL multiple plugs into their sockets, then the control panel connectors (with the thin wires) but do not plug in the Mains Kettle lead yet.
Reconnect the battery leads TAKING GREAT CARE to put them on the right way around, positive to positive, negative to negative. Ignore the cable colours, go by the symbols on the battery terminals. Replace the 2amp fuse and 50amp fuse from their holders in the area of the habitation battery. Do the same under the bonnet (or Cab floor) for the similar 2amp and 50amp and additionally the 20amp near the Starter battery. If you get the 2amp and 20amp mixed up, the 2amp goes in the holder with the thinner cables.Turn on the EBL by pressing the black battery switch in at the top to EIN. Some EBL units like the EBL 109, 208, etc do not have ON/OFF EIN/AUS switch.
If the Control Panel won’t turn on double check all leads, connections and fuses. If it is a later EBL, like the EBL 220 try activating the battery isolation on the DT/LT … control and switch panel, see removal instructions.
If the battery leads touched on the wrong terminal for even a fraction of a second, the EBL control electronics will suffer reverse Polarity failure and will need repair.If all is ok, Plug in the mains 240v EHU into the side of the Motorhome.
Then plug in the EBL mains kettle type lead. The EBL should ‘click’ when the lead is inserted on most but not all units.
If it clicks continually the charger current is not able to leave the EBL and the clicking is the safety relay shutting it down. Pull the kettle lead out and the clicking should stop. Replace any blown fuses in the front of the EBL and around both the Starter and Leisure batteries and replace the kettle lead, you should now hear a single click. If the Control Panel won’t turn on double check all leads and connections.
If there any problems email us as soon as possible.
Test all functionality, every light, every appliance, Running fridge from Alternator, Alternator charging, etc. Everything.
Don’t assume anything is working until you test it. You have disturbed wiring, connectors, Fuses, etc so things that previously worked might not now. Removing and replacing an EBL can have quite a traumatic effect on the connectors and wiring in some hands.
Always update the “Battery Nominal Capacity” (see instructions at the bottom of this page) after making any changes to a system with LCD screens like the DT201, DT220, etc or when an Elektroblock EBL is replaced, like an EBL 100, 101, 220, etc.
Note that the settings and values of the old box may have been lost giving confusing readings for the Digital display EBL units, like the EBL 101, EBL 220. Things like the Amp hour (Ah) values will need to be relearned by the EBL and this can take a few days to get back to normal.
With very best regardsMartin Bushnell
Senior Engineer
A & N Caravan ServicesYes! Absolutely, Tom. But.. I can’t see how to post a pdf here. I’ve tried to copy and paste, but that doesn’t work either. I’ll send it to Chris and hope that he can post it.
Its titled “How to Remove and Replace an Electroblock”
Barry
Sorry, Chris – my mistake. My poor old eyes.
If it is genuine, it’s the bargain of the century…!
Barry
The registration number ‘PO54 BUY’ doesn’t appear on the DVLA MoT website, despite the seller claiming 12 months remaining on the MoT. Not conclusive, I know (he could just be offering a new MoT to the purchaser) but just be aware.
Barry
This is so unbelievable, I contacted the seller… Apart from being unable to understand him, BE CAREFUL! It may be genuine, but… My recommendation would be to quickly see it and the documentation, before parting with any money. As I say, it may be genuine, but dealers don’t usually make these kind of financial errors – even with the mileage, it should fetch over £20,000!
Caveat emptor!
Barry
Hi Himmel,
I had exactly this problem and I solved it by purchasing a cheap round screw hatch (off eBay), making a hole in the bottom of the wardrobe, and fitting the hatch.
Here’s the link to Ted & Alison’s post, who did the same as me…
https://www.exsisowners.com/forums/search/Gas+bottle+access+hatch+in+wardrobe/
Good luck.
Barry
Many thanks, Keith – that’s extremely kind of you. In fact, it’s extremely kind and generous of all of you who contributed. Not forgetting Chris, who has single-handedly saved the site! Thanks, Chris!
I’ll post the details when I receive the charities receipts.
Thank you again.
Best wishes.
Barry
Hi Jessica and Paul,
There is a Facebook page for Exsis Owners, run by our Dutch friends Jan & Nellie Bloos.
Because of their Dutch base, I believe they may be a good source for Continental Exsis owners. I’m afraid I’m not on Facebook, but I’m sure another owner may be able to help you soon.
Good luck in your search.
Barry
Mine are Nyloc nuts so lock themselves onto the stud. They only need to be lightly touching the head of the strut, if that even.
You’re right, Tom. If done up tight, it gives the strut more work to do overcoming that unnecessary friction.
Leave them slightly loose if they are Nyloc nuts is my recommendation.
Best wishes.
Barry
I don’t have my Exsis at the moment, but perhaps someone else can photo these wires for Alan?
Good luck!
Barry
