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I struggled with my seat the same as you’re obviously doing, Harvey, until I discovered the one way to do it…
1. I pull the seat as far forward as I can so the frame clears the handbrake.
2. I tip the back of the seat as far forward as possible, onto the steering wheel.
3. I then turn the seat inwards so that the seat back and armrests “just” scrape past the steering wheel, adjusting the fore/aft position of the seat as appropriate to achieve this.
4. I then rotate the seat fully to face the rear, lifting the cushion on the rear seat so the front seat ‘back/forward’ handle clears the rear seat base
5. I then slide the reversed front seat rearwards and I adjust the back as reclined as the steering wheel will permit (not much!). But… it is reversed.
I hope this encourages you to persevere.
Good luck!
These may be the posts you remember…?
Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
(Posted on behalf of Fred & Gill) After all these years of experiencing a whiff of exhaust fumes with a cab window open I decided to try to eliminate it just before we went to Scotland in May/June. I fitted a curved deflector and it worked a treat – you see we enjoyed brilliant weather and managed to slowly tour and enjoy the scenary with our windows down. Can you believe that our Forum Chief Barry has somehow got things fixed and I was able to post a photo into the Photo Gallery – thats why I have delayed and only just tried again. The component is Simply ETC75 Curved Exhaust Trim76mm from Xtreme Auto Accessories – think I paid £8.75 delivered. I measured the exhaust (from memory) at 63mm and the rolled end at 76mm so I hoped that I could just fit it over the end and tighten up….. However, it wasn’t quite that simple as it would not quite go over the rolled end. The solution was reatively easy – I cut off the rolled end up to half way and hoped to push it over with a nice tight fit, but I had to cut off about another 5-10mm off each side to get it to slide over and tighten with a nice fit. To cut I simply turned the hacksaw upside down and cut upwards against the rolled edge – I was laying down and it was a bit of effort in that difficult position. You can adjust the angle of deflection and how far you wish to bring the tailpipe out from the vehicle – I went for looks and kept it so that it only protrudes slightly. It works a treat. The surprise Exsis couple that I found secluded away in Scotland (Neil and Gill – still not joined!) loved it and I gave them the details to buy one. My engine is the 2.3JTD – please check that you have the same exhaust and size measurements. And now to see if that clever Mr barry fix it has sorted the posting issue. Fred (Fred & Gill)June 27, 2018 at 6:07 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyBarry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
That’s good, Fred. As we don’t drive with windows open (it’s either too hot or it’s too cold!) we haven’t experienced that problem. It would also seem to be a very good option if, say, you accidentally bashed and damaged the tailpipe. Not a lot of money, is it?
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Barry & MaggieAnother thread, mainly about fridge venting, but it had a relevance to exhaust fumes entering habitation…
Fridge: hot ‘n’ cold
Chris & Peter
Member
Posts: 125
Two fridge related questions.1. When the fridge is running on gas, it cools beautifully but the side panel of the cupboard gets really hot to the touch. Also the bottom of the cupboard above gets pretty warm. Is that normal?
2. When a cold wind blows from the side into the fridge ventilation panels, it goes straight into the inside of the van, especially around the top left corner of the fridge. Does anyone know of a way to get rid of the icy draft without preventing correct ventilation?
Peter
April 19, 2015 at 10:43 AM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyBarry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
1. In my experience, this is normal.Small, 12v cooling fans (2 recommended but 1 can suffice for our smaller ‘fridges) may keep the ‘fridge running better and, important for you, the adjacent compartments cooler? Don’t use the fans in winter though. Kits are available but computer fans seem most popular – you just need to add a small thermistor (thermostat) to make it operate automatically. Otherwise operate it on/off by switch.
There’s a good discussion thread here…
And how to do it yourself here…
A kit to do the job is available from CAK Tanks, Product Code FFT1 or FFT2, on page 48 of their superb downloadable catalogue…
2. There was a large-ish gap (unforgiveable in a Hymer!) both above and below my ‘fridge. This was where the ‘fridge was installed by sliding it in to the compartment but, crucially, Hymer hadn’t fitted the recommended sealing strips all round I easily sealed the gaps with a tube of silicon. There is still a very slight ‘crack’ on either side but any draught there is imperceptible. The major draughts were cured with the silicon. There is a very slight concern with this lack of sealing in that a tiny amount of gas fumes could conceivably leak to the interior of the vehicle. The quantities would, I believe, be so minuscule that there are no health concerns but should you smell “fumes” inside the ‘van, this could be a source.
Best wishes to you and all our readers in Belgium!
Barry
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Barry & MaggieApril 19, 2015 at 12:40 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyTony
Member
Posts: 114
How do you get to the gaps? I get exhaust fumes coming in through the fridge vents when driving if I open a windowApril 20, 2015 at 4:52 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyBarry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
That’s really extreme, Tony and needs sorting from a safety point of view if nothing else.If you look above and below the ‘fridge you can probably see the gaps. We have different ‘fridges fitted, but they all go in the same way – slid into the cabinet. If you really cannot locate the gap, park with the offside facing into a strong prevailing wind, then you can easily feel the draught and exactly where it’s coming from. That’s how I first identified my problem – sitting inside the Exsis on a blustery, cold evening and wondering where the cold wind was coming from!
I used a tube of silicon sealant (fitted into a mastic ‘gun’) and squirted copious amounts into the gaps. The tiny gaps at the side were virtually invisible and with negligible draught. In your case though, Tony, I’d be inclined to seal round the entire ‘fridge, for safety’s sake.
Barry
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Barry & MaggieApril 20, 2015 at 5:53 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyFred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Gill noticed draught above fridge when van was new.Brownhills (reluctantly saying fridge removal would be difficult) removed the complete outside top vent and baffle plate to give better access and then applied sealant along top of fridge – it did the trick.
Tony, we have always had a whiff of exhaust if passenger window open slightly…..I have found that lowering drivers side a little seems to compensate and relieve problem. I have never thought that it comes from fridge area, but rather thought it sucks in through driver door area or base seat belt and therefore opening the window fractionally balances it up. Not a problem if we keep all the windows closed.
Never bothered to try to cure it.
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RubyApril 21, 2015 at 10:16 AM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyChris & Peter
Member
Posts: 125
I had another look from the outside. Bit of a sloppy job they did… There are some strips and bits and pieces that don’t quite fit. There’s a notable gap along the top side of the back of the fridge compartment that I’m going to try and close off. Hymer used a kind of weatherstripping so I’m going to try that, rather than silicon on the inside of the van; it seems to be able to withstand the heat quite well.We get a fair dose of exhaust fumes whenever we drive with the driver window open. No idea where that comes from: the fridge and the exhaust are on opposite sides of the van and I can’t imagine fumes blowing to the front and upwards while driving.
April 21, 2015 at 9:59 PM
EditThat’s EXTREMELY kind of you to offer that, Tom & Phyllida and I’m very grateful.
I thought long and hard years ago about whether or not to charge for using the site… I came to the firm decision not to, for a variety of reasons, among which were the practical application of running the charges, the aspirations of those contributors vs what a small, select group of us can provide (a large site costs virtually the same to run as a tiny one like ours), my desire to not display venality when pursuing what, for me, is a pleasant pasttime, and so on.
I have had similar offers over the years from other extremely kind, staunch members and although I’ve been very grateful for those kind thoughts, I’ve declined for some or all of the reasons stated.
I derive a lot of satisfaction from running this site and it would spoil my relationship with you all, and your expectations too, if I charged you.
The costs are comparatively modest (at the moment!) and I’m happy for things to continue like this – me having a great time running the place and you all having a great time (I hope!) reading some good stuff supporting your travels in the best motorhome EVER!
Alan’s experience of being charged at Class 3 for just a centimetre or two over 3 metre height limit, illustrates a disproportionate “punishment” by arbitrarily applying this height rule. It’s so unfair.
One way to defeat this unfair ruling would be to affix a cheap, maybe even non-working, chunky and obvious radio/tv aerial glued to the roof, which would then introduce the rule that roof accessories should not be applied to the overall height. Similar to this I spotted… https://tinyurl.com/y8l5gxst
If charged at a Classe 3 rate, your objection would oblige the operator to actually look at his camera and SEE a tiny motorhome, entirely consistent with a fair “Classe 2” charge.
You do not need to even argue with the operator in a case such as this… Just keep repeating “Classe Deux” and add “Antenne” if necessary; that will work.
And it will save you the cost of the antenna in just one or two saved tolls, the difference between Class 2 and Class 3.
These…
…are available from the USA but, like you, Harvey, I’m drawing a blank too.
Maybe just keep emailing/’phoning suppliers in case you get lucky with some old stock?
They are normal on certain racing cars so must still be available – the steering column fitment might be problematic unless an engineering shop could machine it for you? Maybe try specialist racing suppliers?
Finally, the air-bag (if fitted)… You can insert a diode(?) in the circuit to fool the system that the bag is still fitted but… you lose the security of the air-bag.
Good luck with this, Harvey. I don’t think this is going to be an easy one to sort.
Thanks for your nice comments, folks.
The real power behind this site is my son, Stephen. He has sorted all the things that needed to be bought to get this site like this – making it work for the least amount of money. I think he’s done a brilliant job and it seems you do too. He will be responsible for the security of the site and sorting out all the little glitches that will occur from time to time (like the capital letters in the Forum! He’s working on that now)
Photos will go in the Forum, Fred – just like the old Photo Gallery but shuffled in with the Forum posts. It’s maybe not as convenient, but it all started to get difficult to create, with the purchase of yet more ‘plug-ins’ needed to make it all work.
As far as PMs are concerned, the same difficulties started to raise their head – I had to call a halt to the expense somewhere. And messages for other Members can always either be routed through me OR a request for private contact can be made via me – I’ll pass on all requests. not as convenient i know (certainly not for me) but cheaper and simpler!!
I hope this all works out for everybody. It’s not a “money no object” site but it works and will reliably serve its purpose.
I commend it to the House…!!
And this is what prompted my response (above)…
Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Mike & Elaine are trying to join us. Meanwhile they’ve asked for help with their new Exsis… “We took ownership of our Exsis on 2 September. On reading the section on windscreen condensation we would ask members if they use internal or external thermal blinds? If so what do they recommend and where can they be purchased. We intend to use our Exsis throughout the winter so want to do all we can to keep heat inside. Kind regards Mike and Elaine”
—Barry & Maggie
September 14, 2018 at 3:03 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyBarry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Although I’ve answered them directly from my own experiences (I have an external blind) it would be good to hear experiences from those with internal blinds. I answered “External insulating blinds, whilst the least convenient, are the very best at insulation – from heat as well as cold. If you wildcamp you shouldn’t use external blinds – if an emergency occurs, you wouldn’t be able to drive off without first exiting the vehicle. External blinds get wet! You therefore need to have somewhere out-of-the-way to store them (the boot is ideal). Internal insulating blinds don’t insulate nearly as well, and condensation can still occur on the windscreen between the glass and the blind, as the uncovered glass gets very cold. Internal blinds can be difficult for us to fit because of the reach from the dash to the screen.”
—Barry & Maggie
September 14, 2018 at 3:11 PM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & ReplyBarry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Several adverts in the motorhome press. Silver Screens and Taylormade were the two main manufacturers if they are still in business, but there are also continental-made (German?) on the market that I have seen advertised.
—Barry & Maggie
