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The finished job – no more issues with a rusty bottom! Should last for many years.
This is the Dinitrol RC800/900 applied that converts the rust – same as waxoil does. Also you can see where the inner sills have been repaired.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by k9dougie.
Now that I have mastered how to post pictures on here thought I should post some of the undersealing work done.
Masking up
The end result is …. hardly any movement at all with the wipers going – solid!
Happy with that.
More mods to come.
Regards,
Dougie
Then to stop horizontal movement I replaced the original bracket with a much stronger one. I also upgraded the self tappers with larger self tapping bolts, secured to the rear bulkhead as original.
So I mounted the bracket to a solid anchor point on the lip of the air box. Secured with a nut and bolt fixing at the front but with restricted access could only secure back with a self tapper screw.
This will be the bracket to stop movement vertically.
Hi all,
Well as I’m running out of things to do I thought I could now spend some time letting you good folk know about some of my improvements done during this lockdown.
This one is the issue of the wiper mechanism. So after looking at all the various solutions owners have come up with I decided to do a little different and simples.
I wanted to secure this on the X and Y axis as best I could.
Here with parts removed are the points I would be securing the new brackets, the original bracket with 2 holes on rear bulkhead I would ‘beef’ up as its so flimsy.
Brilliant article, much appreciated. Often thought about get another arm rest. Happy days!
Dougie
Hi Tony,
I am aware that the sides and back (habitation area) are constructed of an aluminum external skin. The front A class cab as you put it is made of GRP. I am almost positively certain that the roof is also GRP and not aluminum as you state. That’s why I said I’m not too bothered by the lacquer problems as it is only on the roof and front cab which are both GRP.
Many thanks,
Dougie
Hi Barry,
I note your comment about rust being hidden with certain types of underseal which is why I chose the Dinitrol treatment process. Part of the process is to steam clean, wire brush the rust where necessary then apply RC800 or RC900 to convert any surface rust before oil based Dinitrol ML is injected into and onto the chassis. Then Dinitrol 4941 is applied all over for protection. The whole process is detailed, photographed and guaranteed. If it’s used for treating landrovers with the terrain they cope with then enough said.
I have already explored the boatyard option for the paintwork but unfortunately because it is sprayed with silver paint on top of the gel coat it can’t be done. A white one can because the gel coat is white and lacquer is sprayed on top. If you lose the lacquer then you can polish the white gel coat. Thats as was explained to me buy their bodywork man at the marina. As I say it’s cosmetic and not too worried at this stage. Something to ponder deal with later.
Cheers,
Dougie.
Barry many thanks, you are a top man.
Didn’t see the messages link!! Your help is very much appreciated.
Dougie
OK so I have sussed it – Fred you are bang on the money!
It wasn’t till I looked inside the tank I realised there is no way it could drain with the tap open in the garage boot. The only discharge from the tank is either the water pump or the drain at the bottom.
Der – I’m a numpty!!
Now my tank drain may possibly be seized up, I don’t want to force it so have decided to leave it shut. If I need to drain the tank for winterisation then I used a length of hose and siphoned it out – very quick and easy and saves the grief of repairing the possibly seized valve. It works and you can even buy a siphon pump on amazon or screwfix for about a fiver – sorted. Can you see any downsides to this method that I’m not seeing?
Just a thought but in the very unlikely event that any water remaining in the water tank did freeze up then I’m assuming it shouldn’t be too much of a problem as the tank is made of plastic and would allow a bit of expansion. Best not to take the risk however.
Thank you for your help Fred and Barry it is much appreciated.
Dougie
Thank you Barry and Fred for your helpful replies.
Fred I thought this would be the correct way of doing things but the reason I asked the question is because I am sure that when I opened up the drain in the garage boot not only did it drain the pipes but it also drained the tank. Now I am not entirely sure of this so at some stage when I get time I will fill the tank again and see if it drains with the tap opened in the garage.
I will let you know what happens.
Once again many thanks for your help.
Dougie
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