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Hopefully, one day you will be able to add your Exsis to that collection.
Long term members on here have discussed in the past that we think they are a future ‘Classic’.
Best wishes that your lovely Rover soon finds a nice new home.
A mate of mine, who was an apprentice mechanic had one, didn’t we feel smug lads back in the early 60’s – lovely car.
Hello Dave and welcome to the forum , well done for finding those old photos – there is some explanation within the photos.
If you combine that info with the information from Harvey as reference by Barry you will have a better idea.
Problem is the old grey matter and memory isn’t what it was and I need some time to think it through properly, but for starters……
The metal Hymer extension fits onto the short original lock and is held by a grub screw.
i didn’t know for sure if it screwed onto the heavy thread (likely) or just fitted snugly over and held in place by the grub screw – and as you note, nobody else knew or replied.
The grub screw was corroded in- so rather than drill it out and try to remove the Hymer extension piece one way or another, I played safe and used the original body and just fitted the new handle to it.
My problem was that the handle would not turn because the body had seized in the black boss. This was caused by the white spacer piece breaking allowing damp and muck in. The spacer holds the plastic trim panel away from the boot. It is just plumbing waste pipe and can be pieced back together and fitted inside a larger 32mm waste pipe.
I cleaned up the corroded surface of the Hymer extension piece, greased it and put it back together using the old body boss ( black) and fitted the new handle to the old unit.
I removed the new lock barrel from the new handle and fitted the original lock barrel to keep the keys the same. It is still working fine.
Hope this helps, I’ll try to recollect my thoughts and also research the Exsis Book if I get time ( in the middle of bathroom project at the moment)
I used white 15mm pipe insulation – the thinner type with overall diameter approx 33mm and we only use a 150 – 200mm length. Style over substance and we only use it on site.
Sometimes we use a little stick on furry bee instead , which is more amusing.
All water pipes are located <b>Internally – </b>sorry, I made a typo on my posting above.
Thought that I had better correct it before someone else finds it and points it out.
Regarding the comment “varnishing!disappearing fast”…. There have been several comments on this problem on the old forum.
Seems to affect roof and bonnet areas?. The problem appears to be the ‘gel coat’ coming off. I noticed a couple of early signs of this on my roof (red van) last week when I cleaned and polished the van ready for winter.
I don’t think anyone has tackled paint issues themselves, so it is probably a job for a paint shop / car or boat repairer, if you have a serious issue
Hello Tango, glad that you have found the forum at the new website and can continue to have the support of fellow owners of our unique vans.
You have one of those rare blue ones – we only know of a few here in the UK.
Barry, our webmaster has provided excellent technical advice as usual.
As you intend to ski – serious winter conditions, then probably you will be on EHU ( electrical hook up), so possibly you will use an electric heater for warmth.
The Exsis is well designed for winter use with all pipes located externally, but the large boot area and boiler will not really benefit from an internal electric heater. I would advise that you also use the gas heater system at times which distributes heat by ducted pipes into all those cold areas ( boot storage area and water tank). I would also use the separate hot water boiler to maintain a minimum temperature at least even if you are not using hot water ( perhaps boiling a kettle for drinks and washing up and using on site washing/ shower facilities)
Do you have an external cover for the windscreen and perhaps an insulated cover that you can lay over the black shelf internally over the engine bay – they will help to keep you cosy.
Enjoy your adventures
Have you tried the sealant route first?
When I had mine done quite a few years ago, I simply took it to ‘National Windscreens ‘ who have a depot in Bath and they ordered the rubber seal, which I think only took 7-10 days to arrive .
At the time they stated a disclaimer about the risk of breaking the windscreen and that would be my risk.
Given that quite a few more years have elapsed, perhaps it would be more risky now.
I had a problem from perhaps a year or so old, which led to me being in dispute with Brownhills and Hymer had to intervene and tell them ‘to get on with it’. Brownhills made a half hearted attempt to put a bit of sealant into the top corner, which didn’t work and soon leaked again after a few months.
That’s when I first went to National Windscreens and they did a better job of putting sealant in that lasted perhaps over a year – and then we decided to try the new rubber seal route.
Luckily there was no problem with the windscreen and it has not leaked since (fingers crossed).
They did make the comment that the fit between the glass fibre bodywork and the windscreen could have been a better match and that would not have helped if sufficient care was not taken originally.
True or not ? They used adequate sealant to produce a good seal.
I believe that Russel also had this done and also mentioned the sealant.
I know that our wonderful ‘web master’ Barry had a new windscreen fitted a couple of years ago and I think that he had that done by Auto glass.
best wishes, Fred
As Barry has replied above, we do know of this very well built vehicle range, have you looked at the ‘City Suite’ also. For the benefit of our newer members, there is a major problem though, they are eyewateringly expensive – if I remember prices are quoted excluding VAT ? and then you also have to add on all the extras that often come in ‘packs’ on many other manufactures. The lovely fibreglass bodywork also imposes a weight / payload disadvantage.
Have you noticed over the years how our roads have become narrower? The number of parked cars reducing two way traffic flow and the hedgerows that are not cut back, especially off the beaten track where we are often found.
Therefore the Exsis also wins here, because the Wingaams at 2.25m wide although narrower than fuller bodied 2.30/2.35 mainstream vans is still wider that the slimline Exsis.
It takes a lot to beat the Exsis, which is why so many are in long term ownership still.
Hi Peter V,
Your local garage are ripping you off, unless there are other factors that they have not told you or you are not passing on.
So that other readers are not scared or put off the other info/quotes above are not too far off the mark – you can ‘Google’ and info on other websites will also confirm that.
I had mine replaced when the van was 6 years old ( from memory about £250 extra on service charge) and I know that costs have risen substantially since then and it will be done again early next year at 12 years. The recommended belt change interval is about 5 years , but this varies according to source. It’s a risky and costly business not to change them!
We have been away and I hope that this is not too late.
The original battery fitted to my 2006 SG was an Exide gel 80AH it lasted less than 2 years.
Many folks over many brands (not just Hymer) suffered from this problem at that time and the reason as with current new technology batteries AGM & Lion is that motorhome manufacturers fitted them before charging systems had caught up.
My van and probably yours is fitted with the Elektoblok EBL 99 and that is not designed to cope with the gel charging regime (even though there is a setting for it on the unit) – Hymer got it wrong.
You will be better off with a Varta LDF 90,(on lead/acid setting) which is what I have fitted and I am very pleased with and its a lot cheaper. It has a special ‘Powerframe ‘ technology particularly suited to leisure batteries – also for motorhome starter batteries as they spend a lot of time ‘off charge’. Another more recent contender is the Yusa L36 – EFB, but it is more expensive and not not as well proven as the loads of feedback and recommendation of the Varta LDF90.
I am not an expert on vehicle electrics or batteries and all my information is gleaned from the OutandAbout Live motorhome forum(bigger than this), but in particular there is expert info here
Thanks for that ‘Gezza’
About 1 month ago my temperature gauge also went straight to normal and stayed there when the ignition is switched on – and still does.
I have not bothered to investigate at all, hoping that it will revert to normal – you give me hope!
Had a similar problem many years ago on my old Rover 400.
Apparently the sensor picked up the serrations in a ring that rotated with the wheel – my ring had split and it slipped, which was picked up by the sensor. I believe that it was a simple function like that which detected if the wheel was skidding and operated the ABS/ASR
May be completely irrelevant to your problem as systems may be quite different and I have not been out to check what is on the Ducato
The exhaust deflector absolutely does the trick, looks good and cheap too.
We enjoyed glorious weather in Scotland in May with the windows open and not a whiff.
We remark on the result and how simple the fix was on every trip (should have listened to Gill years ago).
Thanks for posting the above info Barry – you are a whizz with searching
Yes, thank you Barry & team
So nice to see some familiar faces above
Looks like I have some learning to do in profile
Seems there is no PM facility?
No Photo Gallery – so informative step by step posts are added where?